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Showing posts with label Israel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Israel. Show all posts

Wednesday, April 8, 2015

Entry 5: CouchSurfing and Hitchhiking in Israel

Diary


Holy cow eveything that's happened since my last blog update has been a wild ride, almost constantly moving place to place thanks to tons of CouchSurfing and Hitchhiking.

This blog post won't be as literarily styled as my last, as there's way too much to talk about and I want to spend more time expiring Greece than editing. Perhaps in the future I will come back and revise it after its posted publicly, so keep in touch.

The way I do my blogs is that I keep a diary in my iPhone's notes of brief words and phrases of each day's events to jog my memory. Later on when I finally sit down to write my blog I expand on each of these notes, fixing spelling and grammar, adding detail, better language, fancy metaphors and the like. Expanding on my notes like this takes a lot of time, and I simply haven't had many large chunks of time available in the past month. ...ok, that's not completely true as I still struggle with internet addiction so lots of this free time is spent browsing reddit. But I did (and still do) have planning to do for Greece and Northern Europe this summer.

By the way, I'm considering going to the UK this summer, I'm thinking Scotland, because it's out of the Schengen Area: a group of countries in Europe where those from outside of it can only be in the Schengen for up to 90 days. After those 90 days you must spend 90 days out of the Schengen before coming back in.

So I need a schedule that allows me to visit France during November and December for the 2015 UN Climate Change Conference in Paris, helping with organizing the protests there. The UN hasn't done shit about climate change, so we're there to protest that and start changing the system ourselves. But that's a story for next year.


Sun Feb 1
Arrive at Hostel in Ramallah


Mon Feb 2
Uh, this day was blank in my notes as are some others, so I'm just going to skip over them.


Tue Feb 3

Did you know there's a Krusty Krab in Ramallah? Yes, that restaurant from SpongeBob SquarePants caters to patrons of the West Bank. Hardly anyone was there though because the food sucks when tasty falafel and lamb are all around.

That night I went to a yoga class in Ramallah with an Australian aid worker, who has spent much of his time in Gaza, and James, an English guy traveling around the Middle East. It was a typical yoga class, full of Westernized appropriations of Indian culture, attended mostly by Palestinian women. It was very relaxing, and during the meditation part at the end my mind was bouncing off the walls, as I couldn't focus on the instructor's voice at all.

That night I met a Palestinian veterinarian atheist Richard Dawkins fan from Hebron invited me to his place, though I never did. We talked about atheism, and our experiences of being an atheist in each of our own cultures. I've never felt persecution for my beliefs whereas he has.


Wed Feb 4

The Hostel in Ramallah has activities everyday, and today's was a hike. We saw Tel Aviv from the top of a castle upon a high hill, as well as a nearby settlement.

Thurs Feb 5


Fri Feb 6

Today's activity at the hostel was a "political tour," which meant visiting and participating if desired in one of the weekly demonstrations that take place in Bil'in, a town near Ramallah. I met Roi, a Tel Aviv Israeli Jew of Anarchists Against the Wall who comes to demonstrations every other week.

The Palestinians march as close to the apartheid wall as they can with the ultimate goal of tearing it down. On the opposing side are the Israeli military blocking the Palestinians from advancing, mostly by launching tear gas in a high arc to land amidst the protestors. Occasionally the IDF will fire rubber bullets and even more dangerous weaponds like projectile tear gas canisters, which are designed to penitence buildings to spread tear gas within closed walls. There's a monument erected for Besem, someone who was killed when one of these projectiles hit him in the chest.

Toward the end of the protest the IDF advanced very rapidly, and we all retreated rapidly in response. Tear gas landed in front me as I was walking quickly away from approaching IDF, I felt tear gas for the first time. Despite how little gas was around me it stung pretty badly.


Sat Feb 7

I had to leave the West Bank back to Jerusalem because of visa complications. A bus took me from Ramallah to the checkpoint, and when I got off the bus I was pretty confused. What exactly was I supposed to do at this checkpoint? Where do I go? It was very crowded, with lots of lines and gates everywhere. Fortunately a Palestinian noticed my confusion and gave me free taxi ride, as he bought a taxi for himself to go to another, easier checkpoint at which I didn't even have to show my passport.

He dropped me off on the outskirts of Jerusalem and I still had ways to go, so I turned around and stuck out my arm to hitchhike and immediately found a ride. That never happened to me before but it was pretty cool finding a ride so quickly in a city.

He dropped me off at the Old City from which I easily walked to Abraham Hostel, where I ran into James, who I met at the Hostel in Ramallah.
I met yet another Birthrighter at the hostel, one of the many I've ran into.
My friend Zoe took me to an underground (literally and figuratively) death metal show, lots of loud noises with no rhythm. Not my style but it was fun knowing that exists in Jerusalem.


Sun Feb 8


Mon Feb 9

The Israelis must be very proud of Kafka's judaism because they stole every bit of his nightmarish bureaucratic themes. My appointment at the office for Ministry of the Interior in Jerusalem ended with them claiming that I needed the original copy of my birth certificate in order to extend my visa. Fuck getting that mailed here, there's no way I'm going to travel around the world with that in my possession. But they said I could stay until I get berth cert even though my visa expired the following day, so I figured they don't care that much anyway so I can spend as long as I want here with an expired visa just because I'm Jewish, so I left Jerusalem for Ramallah. Only once I got there I realized that having an expired visa in the West Bank is not smart because there's checkpoints everywhere. While my white and Jewish privilege can get me pretty far, there may be that one time they decide to examine my visa and give me trouble. So I need to get out of the country and come back.


Tue Feb 10

Left the Hostel in Ramallah, dropped a book my CS host Mohanad loaned to me off at Ramallah Cafe, took a bus to Jeru, found my Mexican phd researcher friend on bus, went to Citadel Hostel a her just to charge my phone, left to try hitchhiking to Eilat, people said I was in wrong spot, took tram to other spot without paying for tram, got busted for not paying, but screw that I'm not gonna pay the over 100 shekel fine. Got lost in Jerusalem. Made it to Abraham Hostel. Found James White again. Eavesdropped on a Jerusalem LGBT club member who mentioned free pizza, went there for the pizza, went to CS host and stayed the night there.

Wed Feb 11
Stressed about visa situation but friends got me to relax.

Thurs Feb 12
Bus ride to Eilat. Someone gave me a free ticket that would've cost me 80 shekels ($20)
Went to wrong border, too late for border crossing, which closed at 8pm. Camped on beach

FrI Feb 13
Charged phone got water at local Eilat bar, met Israeli who worked at Towson Mall selling Israeli products. She's been to that now closed Falafel shop in Maple Lawn.
Went to Border crossing. At that point I was three days over my visa, this border cared about that more than the Ministry of the Interior did, gave me a strict talking to but let me go.

Taxi to Aqaba because they don't allow walking to there.
Met CS host Ibrihim, talk with him at cafe, he's Palestinian, his family left Palestine in '45 by *choice*, that is: they chose to leave because they were farmers and had no match against the military. This destroys the black and white thinking of whether Palestinians left because they chose to or because they were kicked out, and paints a more complicated picture. Yes, some Palestinians left by choice but it was because they had no other choice, it was face the British/Israeli military or leave.
Met Mutaz Teto, studies accounting at works at bus station. Gave me the rest of his dinner. Drove me and his work buddy on a ten minute business run. No idea what was happening but got milk and oreo cookies.
Ibrihim bought me falafel for dinner as we watched Training Day.


Sat Feb 14
Left Ibrihim's, crossed border crossing, Israel gave me one month instead of the usual three because I had overstayed my visa three days and I only spent one day in Jordan. I'm Jewish and have family in Israel, which might have been a factor in them letting me back in Israel.
Found Liran on CouchSurfing. Hitchhike there with old couple who drove me straight there. Met German girl and Araik from Russia. Went to pool bar, Liran's friend harassed German.

Sun Feb 15
Liran asked me for massage. Creepy.

Mon Feb 16
Left Liran's and hitchhiked with Araik to Mitzpe Ramon. Three different rides, noon to five.
Saw Makhtesh Ramon, a huge canyon. Very pretty.
Visited hostel, met Simon from France. Met Noam our CS host, his two cats, two kids, and a homophobic woman surfer from Russia.

Tue Feb 17
Left Noam's for Beer Sheva, said goodbye to Araik.
Got to Beer Sheva and met up with James White who I had met in Ramallah and coincidentally in Jerusalem too.
Surfed with Nataly and her two American-Israeli flatmates, one of whom went to a house party with a NOLS Amazon buddy. Went to awesome music jamming session with her friends.

Wed Feb 18
Left with James to hitchhike for Ein Gedi. This was the first time I headed for a place without a secure host in place before hand. Hitchhiked with an awesome guy who fed us lunch and connected us with a host in Arad on the way to the Dead Sea, stayed night with them.
Check out my friend James' blog entry of these events!


Thurs Feb 19
It was supposed to snow in Jeru and flood roads on way to Jeru, so James and I did a day trip to hot springs in Dead Sea.
Luckily, hitched with a geologist on way there who told us about the terrain.
Another hitchhike ride was the third person I met from Silver Spring (a town very close to my home town in Maryland) in one month in Israel. Very friendly, fed us pizza during car ride. Drove to far but no big deal, hitched back to find hot springs. They were hot. Now I smell like sulfur despite rinsing off in the Dead Sea and taking a shower.

Fri Feb 20
Hitchhiked with James from Arad to Beer Sheva. Got to out host Aaron Zalcman who wasn't there but his flatmate Micah was. Went to dinner with Moshe, another CS guy in the city.

Sat 21
Spent day planning for Greece
CouchSurfed w Aaron Zalcman

Sun 22
More planning for Greece.
Bakery w a friend, went to Asham Hazman, a cool bar/music scene. Made campfire, had beer, roasted sweet potatoes in tin foil in the fire.

CouchSurfed w Moshe

Tue 24
Hung out w friend in middle of the day shopping for Purim costumes
CouchSurfed w Moshe

CouchSurfed w Ram, a student at Ben Gurion Uni

Left Ram's to hitchhike to Tel Aviv. First time I got picked up by a truck.
Arrived at Milk and Honey Hostel, stayed night there

Did lots of emails, aka surfed reddit.

Sat Feb 28


Sun March 1
Still at Milk and Honey hostel
CouchSurf w friend from All That's Left, Jewish activist group against the occupation, she gave me free ukulele! Very, very happy about the ukulele.

Mon March 2
Stayed w Tomair Friedman.
I met this guy summer 2011 at Landmark College. I was a tour guide and he was a prospective student I gave a tour too. He never went to Landmark but we stayed fb friends since.
He saw I was in Israel and messaged me saying he lives there. We tried for a while to meet up then it finally become convenient.
Played basketball and watched Walking Dead. 

Tue March 3
Train back to Milk and Honey
Hitchhike to Jeru
Stay with friend

Wed March 4
Get stuff from Ari, a guy from america visiting Israel that my Mom and Dad gave a phone charger, power cord, harmonica, etc. to give to me as more supplies for Greece.

Through the end of Israel, stayed with friends and prepared for Greece.

Last day, one more night at Milk and Honey hostel.

Forgot to give key back to my friend, so I had to rush to do that before my flight.

Flight to Greece, met Alberto on the train and flight there, spanish-German traveling around the world.

End notes:

I often say to myself "Holy fuck what the Hell am I doing," as I travel, wondering why and how I'm actually going to survive. But I say this less and less as I'm continuously amazed at the hospitality of strangers.

Sunday, February 1, 2015

Entry 4: Jaffa to Ramallah

Jaffa to Ramallah


Wednesday, Jan 21

After several days of procrastinated packing I finally left with goodbye hugs to my friends. I must admit I was sad to go but I didn't want to get too comfortable.

Right now I'm in the mindset that I need to keep traveling, I left the Milk and Honey hostel because I could feel myself getting too comfortable there. I made great friends and it was sad to go but I felt like I had to because I'm traveling -- that's what you do when you travel, right? Yet when I walked away with my heavy backpack slowing me down, there was an additional weight of regret pulling me back to Milk and Honey as if I wanted to stay longer.

The warmth of the sun and clear skies gave plenty of room for thinking my plans over though I trekked onward to an on-ramp Ori suggested to try hitchhiking, or "tremping" as they call it in Israel. Swaying in my arms in plastics bags were a fire starter and fuel kit that I collected from guests who left them behind, dried fruit, nuts, and granola to ensure my sustenance for the coming days.

I waited a half-hour until I met Shoshana, a New Jersey native who picked me up on her way to her Jerusalem home. We talked the whole time about our home country and why we left.

Once she dropped me off I took the short walk to Abraham Hostel where I checked in for free, as fellow hostel workers get three free nights there. Soon after, I met up with my friend Zoe, an experienced traveler helping me spread my wings and fly, who toured me through the city.

After a long day I rested my head in a crowded dorm room of Abraham Hostel.


Thursday, Jan 22

I woke up early to get first in line at the Ministry of the Interior's Jerusalem office where my attempt to extend my visa was thwarted by a bureaucratic delay, which I was warned is horrifying -- the earliest appointment I could get was February 9th, one day before my visa expires. Whatever, I'll get there early that day too, and if they don't accept it then I will quickly trek to the Southern Israeli city of Eilat where I can hop to Aqaba, Jordan and back, though they may only extend my visa for ten days. If this happens then I will try the Egyptian Sinai and back, or maybe move on to Cyprus.

I returned early enough to score a second breakfast at Abraham Hostel where I found a former guest of Milk and Honey, Tseda, an American researching for her senior thesis on the history of medical attention to refugees (I think? I forget).

Stressed about my visa circumstances, I wandered around the city and ate a mini cup of Ben and Jerry's cookie dough (so thankful they have it here) until I ran into my Norwegian friend from the asshole-led Jerusalem Gardens hostel, Bjørnulf -- Beo for short. I forgot to write about it in my last post but I ran into him at the Milk and Honey Hostel too, as he wanted an escape for a day, so it was a crazy coincidence to see him again. He lifted my stress and I went straight back to the Abraham Hostel's wifi to work out my situation.

While I could have stayed for free at Abraham Hostel, I ditched my reservation to CouchSurf with Ira from Silver Spring, Maryland, a town fifteen minutes away from my hometown of Scaggsville! Ira hosted another guest along with me, Claudio from Italy, and regaled us with tales of his activist youth in the 70's.

Friday, Jan 23
Friday and Saturday I found another CouchSurfing host, Shiri, a chemistry student at Hebrew University who cooked me and her friends a fabulous vegan dinner that kept me full for days. Like me, she grew up Jewish but is now atheist, so we bonded over that.

It's interesting actually, my time here in Israel has made feel less Jewish. Non-religious and atheist-Jews in America often still culturally identify with Judaism, joking and mocking their own Judaism to stick out as a form of identify expression in a Christian dominated culture. I know some such American Jews who casually joke about themselves openly to their friends as if to remind themselves and others about their Jewish background. Not that this is a bad thing, it creates a sense of community and belonging out of a tiny percentage of society who would be alienated otherwise.

However Israel doesn't have this because of the Jewish dominated culture. It's not necessary to joke about getting Chinese food for Christmas when nobody forces Jesus down your throat. The secular and left leaning Jews I've met here are actually disgusted at the increasingly religious-right government and certain parts of the population, so they eschew Judaism all together to create bonds rather than joking about their own Judaism like American Jews do. When showing my avocado seed carved Star of David to an Israeli I met he even compared it to the Nazi Swastika, asking me to get rid of the nationalism from his sight.

I can't deny my Jewish cultural identity though since I was raised with it but when the Netanyahu administration ties Judaism with Israeli Nationalism it becomes elitist when one does deny the Palestinian struggle.

Ok, that's enough pseudo-anthropological rambling, let's return to my blog.

Sunday, Jan 25

I left Shiri's place early to ensure my procrastination habits of a few days before would not resurface, leaving the fire starter and fuel here as I didn't want to bring that through the checkpoint. Standing at two of my bus stops on the way, I mentioned to the Israelis waiting with me where I was going to which they gravely warned me to be careful and wished me luck not to get killed. The only thing that scared me, I told myself, was how ignorant Israelis were -- buses are segregated, after all. (Keep this is mind as you read though as I end up scared nonetheless.)

I got to the bus station for Palestinians at around 3:00 PM, where a friendly one-armed man enthusiastically helped me toss my giant backpack and grocery bags under the bus and asked for twenty shekels, which I assumed was for the bus ride. I think he ripped me off though, using ten of those to pay for his own ticket, and since asked me for more money when I sat next to him. After he fell asleep, I occupied my time with staring out the window, keeping silent and enjoying the Arabic language in the air.

Passing the checkpoint is a breeze going in; it's on the way out that gives Palestinians hours, usually a full day, of trouble. During this bus ride I saw the apartheid wall up close for the first time -- it was surreal, a high wall with barbed wire rounding the top decorated by watch towers and occasional graffiti. I didn't get a photo, I wanted to wait until I learned the culture a bit first before I pulled out my iPhone's camera. As the blue dot on my phone approached Area D Hostel, which I knew had free wifi, I exited the bus and thanked the driver, shukran, lugging my bags across the street toward the hostel while people smiled at the American idling by.

Soon after borrowing a phone to call my CouchSurfing host Mohanad, he took me to Ramallah Cafe for hookah where he smoked as we chatted for a couple hours. He bought me Chinese take out as we headed for his home in the north of the city. I have a private room, bathroom, and shower in his beautiful apartment, recently emptied by his ex-wife and three-year-old daughter who he plans to see in Sweden soon. Mohanad works at a bank while studying for his master's in International Development, mountain biking with his friends in the little free time he has, so his busy schedule allows me to explore the city by myself.

Edit: check out this article about him and his friends mountain biking in Palestine!
http://www.middleeasteye.net/in-depth/features/palestine-riders-biking-through-holy-land-226620473
Or this link:
http://www.thatsramallahbaby.com/#!Mountainbiking-in-Palestine-Thats-Ramallah-Baby/c166d/55ae11330cf286eab0280e10

Monday, Jan 26

I woke up early yet spent much of the morning on my phone looking over my plans, with a late start out of Mohanad's home. While it's a half hour walk away from the city center, I took the stroll to see the route. Perplexed by a fancy KFC/Pizza Hut on the side of the road, I wandered in expecting to check it out for just a minute when a man exclaimed at me to help him finish his meal after learning I was American. I rejected at first but he insisted and eventually left me alone for his taxi job, which I first thought he was slyly making me pay for his meal but he turned out to be a sincerely nice guy.

Full with grease, I kept moving toward the city center where a swarm of kids ran into me at the afternoon market trying to communicate with what little English they knew, though it was much better than my Arabic. They cheerfully led me to their "boss man," an eighteen-year-old named Ali selling vegetables for his father's business, who's Arabic name on Facebook is علي أبو عطيه. The rest of the day and through the night I learned what Palestinian hospitality means. It's as if their national sport is throwing kebabs and pastries at Americans. From a teen worker handing me raw fennel drizzled with lemon juice to an old man walking by who came out of nowhere and literally pushed his half-eaten doughnut into my mouth out of giddy generosity, I was stuffed until the next morning.

Ali asked me more than a few times if I was scared to which I replied that I wasn't. No way, why would I be scared? They are people just like any other on Earth, kind and compassionate at heart. But could he see something that I couldn't? In the middle of goofing around with the kids at the busy market, an older guy around my age cut through the crowd and inched to my face with a stern glare, seemingly annoyed at me as if I was disturbing his family by my presence. I calmly asked him if he was ok, repeating myself several times yet got only a silent, angry glare in response. After a full minute or two of this he let out an incomprehensible yell -- immediately followed by a chorus of laughter as the kids realized their older brother was joking with me long before I did. He walked away chuckling at my fear. Without me realizing it, Ali was right. It was just 24 hours after arriving in a new place and new culture, the Arab world and the "Other," why wouldn't I have some fear and anxiety? Racism permeates us all subconsciously, it's naive to think I wasn't scared of entering the West Bank.

I hung out with Ali and his friends at the market until it closed shortly after seven, then we all headed to an Internet cafe in a taxi-van to spend the rest of the night goofing off, sharing music, and learning about each other's lives in butchered Arabic and English, while sipping a creamy, orchid tea (picture!). While it was mostly fun and games, they also showed me YouTube videos of the IDF countering Palestinian demonstrations and a montage of Palestinians who have died at the hands of the IDF. While they love Americans they don't like our government, which backs Israel. Interestingly, I never heard the word "Jewish" from anyone yet; it's pretty clear to me that despite some Israelis claims otherwise, Palestinians hate Israel, not Jews. My CouchSurfing host has Israeli friends he invites over, though with difficulty due to the wall. I brought up the subject on my own and told him I was Jewish, which didn't phase him at all.

Ali invited me to stay with his family that night, who gave me another full dinner. I wasn't hungry but it would be rude to refuse and it was tasty anyway. After I told his Dad I was in Israel before coming here he gave me a long talk in decent English about how Israel doesn't exist, it's all Palestine, which I was grateful for the opportunity to listen and not argue. He also spoke in Arabic to Ali at length about their financial situation; I could see the poverty in their faces though they didn't specifically mention it to me. Hanging on their family's wall and as Ali's Facebok profile picture is a portrait of one of his sons who was taken prisoner by the IDF even though he was not armed.

They have a small television and wifi, though it's a crowded home as I slept in a small bedroom with two of Ali's brother's while Ali got out an extra mattress to sleep on the living room floor. I only saw Ali's Mom a couple times, who wore a headscarf and didn't make eye contact with me. While Ramallah isn't as traditional as the rest of the West Bank women are still often kept separate from men, especially when guests arrive. In the streets however I see plenty of women without any headscarves. I was warm enough to sleep most of the night however the morning call to prayer at around 5 AM wouldn't let me fall back asleep. The mosque must have been very close to his home because it was very loud and kept going for at least twenty minutes. In a odd sense of familiarity and curiosity I realized that while it was definitely foreign to me, it was similar to Jewish music heard in synagogues as a minor keyed tune.


Tuesday, Jan 27

7:00 AM breakfast at Ali's was sweetened tea, though he bought me some plastic wrapped pastries on the way to the market as well. He works twelve hour days with his family yet makes the best of it despite the conditions, giving travelers like me all he has. I hung out at the Area D Hostel typing this up (check out the view!) and checking emails then went back to market where I was given more fruits and pastries out of hospitality.

Notes, Tuesday through Sunday:

Mohanad finished the book he had for his course, "Popular Resistence in Palestine: A History of Hope and Empowerment" by Mazin B. Qumsiyeh, so he lent it to me for reading.

One night, Mohanad took me to meet his friends at an Irish pub where I met other CouchSurfers, NGO workers, and travelers. It was like a UN meeting of various countries sipping alcohol in Ramallah. Another night we went out again to a different bar and then to a dance club at the top floor of a fancy hotel.

I mostly wandered around the city, not doing anything in particular, but simply exploring and getting to know the place. Often people of all ages shout out to me "Welcome!", wave in glee, or even hand me a piece of whatever fruit or vegetable they are selling. Once some teens followed me around asking for shekels, the Israeli currency also used here, but adults caught them and sternly told them to back off (or at least I assume that's what they said since I don't know Arabic). On the other hand, I've had kids offer me money too, which I had to flat out refuse -- there's no way I'm taking that from them. While I typically walk everywhere to save money, walking to the Mahmoud Darwish museum honoring the late poet some people offered me a ride in their car right up to the front gate.

I left my CouchSurfing host Mohanad to spend one night for free at Area D Hostel on Saturday night, since a volunteer there invited me when he visited Milk and Honey a few weeks ago.

I start volunteering at the Hostel in Ramallah today, Sunday February 1st, for at least one month, and I may volunteer at a refugee camp or teach English during the next month. My first week here has been incredible, here's to the rest of my time here.

Adding on: Just got to the Hostel in Ramallah, and was greeted by a wonderful guitar voilin duet rendition of Leonard Cohen's "Hallelujah" as we're making dinner together. I like it here already, great music, great food, great people.

List of Arabic words I've memorized so far (pardon me if I butcher them):
Salaam Alaikum -- hello, goodbye, peace. Like Shalom in Hebrew
Layla Sayeeda -- goodnight
Jayeed -- good
Mahyi -- water
Shukran -- thank you




Tuesday, January 20, 2015

Update 3, Jan 17th, '15; Milk and Honey Hostel

It's been a while since my last update, and unfortunately I did not make detailed notes to use for the blog like I did for my last posts, so this will be more... general.

Let's see...  There's sooo much to talk about since my last update. Sorry it's been so long!

Typing with my thumbs as my head rests on my pillow makes me pump out these blogs sooner yet with the literaracy of a lysdexic ephelant, so bear with me.

I arrived at the Milk and Honey Hostel on Shalma 4 in Jaffa, Israel on Friday morning, December 5th. It was just some place I found at the last minute to work in exchange for food and shelter but by the end of my stay it became a home.

Between seven and nine other coworkers, we each worked around 21 hours per week, cleaning the four full bathrooms, making beds, sitting at the computer as a receptionist, buying groceries at the local supermarket, and making a breakfast of Israeli salad (chopped cucumbers and tomatoes), bread, hummus, tahina, and labina (a spreadable cheese without the distinct flavor cream cheese has). If I worked more than 21 hours, which was often up to 30 hours, I got 25 shekels per hour or 200 shekels per week ($50) to spend on my lunch and dinner. Total occupancy is at around 40 beds, which only happened around Christmas and New Years, though these guests supplied the staff with a steady stream of alcohol. I'm thankful for the many Russians that visit here.

The people I met here have been a blessing to my burgeoning travels, from my coworkers I grew friendships with to the myriad and diverse travelers who rested here for one night.

My manager, Kenya (like the country, yes that's her name), is a Yemeni Jew who co-owns the hostel with two other people, although I've never met them since they don't work nearly as much as she does. Her husband often works here too in addition to playing bass for the Israeli singer Ester Rada. They sometimes bring their adorable toddler with them as well as wine or pastries for special occasions (like my going away!). They are a very chill family, super friendly and welcoming, who invited me back to stay whenever I want.

Except for the two Israelis, Ori, a Tel Aviv University political philosophy student who gave me fantastic feedback on my Birthright essay, and Atar, an art student with an amazing tahina cookie recipe, staff here are also travelers, coming and going to make a steady stream of new faces to meet. When I first got here my coworkers were Selena, Cormoron, and Daniel, an American from Virginia who funds her travels by teaching yoga and giving massages around the world, an Israeli who changed his name to the bird of the same name because why not, and an eighteen-year-old American who paid over ten thousand dollars to work at this hostel and learn about Israel in a separate program. Then came Ilhan, a crazy French guy with one enormous dread-lock who incessantly asked people how they were doing over, and over again even if we told him we were fine just minutes before. Eventually, we couldn't take it anymore and my manager asked him to leave. There's Elmar, the Dutch artist born one day after me, carrying a book of the hand-prints of every person he meets on his travels. I just met Rabea before I left, a German girl who's spent four years on the road. Finally there's Valentina from Italy, who's looking over my shoulder as I type this -- wait, she just went away so I can talk about how evil she is. Probably my best friend after Christmas eve mass together at a nearby Arabic Church. We go from deep, meaningful conversations to spontaneous bursts of laughter, late night talks to walks in the local market. Thank you for everything, I will miss you! Come visit me in Ramallah!

There were even some hostel guests who have stayed here so long we became friends, like Jeffrey the Dutch philosophy student who spent his vacation here during Christmas and invited me to his home in the Netherlands this Summer. There's Michael, an American immigrating to Israel who is temporarily living at the hostel until he finds an apartment. And Harvey, a French guy traveling around the world who rambles incoherently and left his tent here for me to take (I think?). I met Ryan from the Virginia side of DC on his way out of Saudi Arabia where he taught English for six years. After growing sick of the fundamentalist country where his kids praised Hitler for killing Jews, he drove away in his expensive sports car, which he takes all over the world, getting it ferried across oceans and seas. Attempting to ship it to Cyprus, it got a flat tire on his way to the port in Haifa in Northwestern Israel; hopefully he can find the rare tires it needs in Turkey. He takes pictures of famous places with his sports-car in the foreground -- that's his shtick, a lot cooler than a garden gnome, right? While in Saudi he converted to Islam just for the fun of it despite secretly being atheist, and he became a minor celebrity in the country for a few weeks since it's very rare for a white American to do that. News networks tried interviewing him but he declined, saying that in his culture religion is more personal so it's not polite to sensationalize.

Gabrielle, a guest here, deserves a story on her own. She did Birthright in 2009 and stayed afterward with her boyfriend to participate in activist demonstrations against the occupation. At one of these, the IDF was shooting rubber bullets at the protesters and hit her boyfriend in the head, permanently paralyzing and leaving him brain dead. She's here to try to sue the IDF for what happened, courageously coming back to fight for justice. The court cases haven't been going well though, as the Israeli bureaucracy shuts down anyone attempting to resist.
Update: I found this article where it clarifies it was a high velocity tear gas canister, not a rubber bullet
http://electronicintifada.net/content/tristan-anderson-civil-suit-delayed-new-evidence-emerges/10649

There were unwelcome crazy guests too, like a creepy old Israeli man who verbally harassed women every chance he got and an annoying French lady who accumulated so much trash under her bed I needed a giant black trash bag and vacuum to clean everything. Send me a message if you want the details of her stay that are too gruesome for this blog.

In a weird connection to recent news, every French person I met here has been crazy and Islamophobic, from simply saying Israel should take over the West Bank as if its ours to a couple that thanked me for making breakfast as they don't eat anything made by Arabs -- the TV told them that Arabs poison Jew's food.

Countless guests here have been Birthright participants, as they find the closest hostel they can after ending at the nearby Ben Gurion airport. Most recently, two were on their way to visit their IDF friend who promised to take them flying in his Apache helicopter. I routinely see Birthright buses in the city, and talk with the participants about my time here, casually asking how the brainwashing is going. So many Israelis, most of them liberal, consider Birthright a propaganda exercise; it's such a common notion that it is joked about in the Israeli version of Saturday Night Live.

While most of the people I befriended were at my hostel I did meet Zoe, an American who did the same thing I did but a year ago: Birthright to escape America and travel around the world. Coincidentally, she knows a Landmark College friend of mine back home and is familiar with the Maine based Beehive Collective, that artist activist collective I volunteered with this past August through October, since she's from that state. She's been all over Europe since first coming to Israel but she came back here for the Winter. I had Christmas dinner with her and her friends and I'm about to go visit her in Jerusalem on my way to Ramallah.

There's only three of us Birthrighters left in Israel, Eitan, Andrew, and myself; the rest of us had left the country a long time ago. Last night I had a mini Birthright reunion with Eitan and Noga, an IDF soldier who was with us during the trip. Hopefully I'll see Andrew at the farm he's volunteering with soon.

Well, there you have it, what matters most in traveling is the people you meet rather than the places you see. The connections created are a metaphor for how we are all connected in the world by human emotions, not photoshopped geography. Now that I got that cliche out of the way I can avoid social interaction the rest of my time, right?

I leave Jaffa today and will start volunteering at the Hostel in Ramallah (that's the actual name of the hostel) on February 1st for two months. Between now and then I will CouchSurf in Jerusalem for the rest of this week and then spend a week CouchSurfing in Ramallah to get used to the city before working there.

One point about Tel Aviv before I go: it feels too American, a Western city in an Eastern land. Israelis even consider it practically a different country than the rest of Israel. While it certainly has its differences and I enjoyed running barefoot on the beach, I have been ready to leave for a while now; my heart aches for more to see.

OK, I need to start packing, this procrastination habit is hard to beat.

Shalom and Assalaam alaikum

Addendum: I just realized I did something a little stupid.

My tourist visa says I can stay until 10/2/2014, so I had originally interpreted this as October 2nd, 2014, without realizing it actually means February 10th, 2014. Which means I have a little more than twenty days left in Israel.

I want to stay longer however, as you know, so I have a couple options. One, I can make a trip within the next couple of days to Cyprus, Jordan, or Egypt to reset my visa. Or two I can try to extend my visa, which is a lot easier I think.

In order to extend my visa, I'm told that I need to list an Israeli address as my place of residence, so for the next few days I need to find someone who will let me use their address even if I don't stay there like my new friends or my distant family here.

Or I'm going to Jordan and back! Where should I go?

Also, I've actually been trying to leave Jaffa for the past few days now but my procrastination, planning, and packing habits reek of -- breaking fourth wall here, I just got distracted for five minutes after writing that -- ADHD distraction fest. It's a running joke here at my hostel that I'm never going to leave. By Tuesday at ten o'clock at night I finally finished packing to head to the bus station for the hour journey to Jerusalem. My friend Valentina however (thank you very much!) suggested I call Abraham hostel to try to reschedule my stay for Wednesday night, which fortunately worked out with no money lost only because I'm a hostel worker myself.

Monday, December 1, 2014

Israel post-Birthright. Blog entry one.

Apparently I should do these more often.

I'm finalizing a 24 page essay on Birthright, exposing it's propaganda point by point. And I've been waiting to finish that before doing any other blogs.

But screw it, here's a quick one for everyone in the meantime. I guess this means you can see the rough draft of the essay if you skip to the previous blog entry. Read if you want but I may add or delete some of it.

Wednesday night, Nov 19th.
Birthright ended, goodbyes were rushed as people went off to different directions.

I went with Maxi (our 60 something year old guide) and Eitan, a fellow Birthrighter, on a train towards Tel Aviv. We were all headed in different directions.

I went to my Dad's friend Melissa's house in the suburbs and stayed there for the next four nights, where I spent most of the time typing my essay. I swam in the Mediterranean, ran barefoot on the beach, and played with her kids. Thank you for letting me stay and use your computer Melissa!

Sunday, Nov 23, went to Jerusalem to see my third cousin Lev, his parents, wife Steph and newborn daughter Meira. We had dinner at a nice restaurant and then I stayed at the Abraham Hostel in Jerusalem, which is apparently one of the best hostels in the world. Not bad for my first hostel. I highly recommend it. Just don't make the same mistake I did of taking someone's bed on accident (it was early enough I found a new bed and nothing problematic happened). I met some Germans who visited the Holocaust musuem here and asked them if it was too depressing for them, to which they said they responded that they grew up with it and so are used to it.

Hostels being too expensive for someone trying to travel without using money, I found a guy from someone at Abraham Hostel who was open to hosting travelers. Thanks Achia! He has cool story himself, having ran away from his ultra orthodox family as a teen, slept on the streets, and has found his way to a living with a few jobs and apartment in Jerusalem. Over hummus and arak, with a friend of his visiting, we hung out at his place and watched Friends.

Next night I used CouchSurfing to find Avrum, an Australian-Israeli building his own hostel but is letting couchsurfers stay too. Thanks Avrum! I stayed Tue night through Thursday, and met a bunch of cool people. A Norwegian journeyman who rambled about conspiracy theories but is pretty fun to talk to anyway, a British electrician who's helping to wire the house in exchange for living there, a Thai cook who's also doing some sort of helping children here (I think?), American biologists spreading awareness of secret engineered viruses that control the population (I'm skeptical, but ask me if you want to see the abstract), and an American journalist tracking the story of a new director of an Israel-Palestine struggle activist organization.

Thursday evening through Monday morning I stayed with my cousins, and went with them to friends of theirs for Thanksgiving, which was more of a party for the hell of it with lots of desserts and no turkey. Met some cool people there who invited me to an All That's Left (activist organization opposed to the Israeli occupation of Palestine) meeting in Tel Aviv, Thurs Dec 4th. Thank you Lev, Steph, and Meira!

Up until last night when she had to fly home to Montana, Lindsey, my friend from Birthright, was in Jerusalem for a few days with me. We wandered inside the Old City, visited the Israel Musuem where the Dead Sea Scrolls are kept, toured to the Dome of the Rock, went to Shabbat dinner with my cousins, spontaneously ran into our Birthright friend Ben, had lunch with our Birthright medic and guard Yosef who lives in Jerusalem, and spent tons of time in the market, which was a great people watching and good food eating experience. It was great spending time with you, thanks for the being here!

I'm now back at Avrum's place. I had emailed him asking if I could come back. He gave a long response that I thought meant yes. Turns out it was just a question. And I assumed yes. When I showed up he got mad and asked why did I come back without his permission. We settled it though. And I can work here in exchange for staying.

Ok I think that's good for now. Typing this with my thumbs on my iPhone with wifi can only get so eloquent. Please pardon my butchered grammar.  I can add more later. See my pics on Facebook! I upload each night I take pics.

Oh yeah. I need to blog about my past six months of travel. and thank everyone that was involved in that. Next time on Michael's blog!

Edit: Forgot to mention that on my way from my cousin Lev's and back to Avrum's hostel for the second time, I walked by the Israel President's house just to check it out as I was curious. I think they had asked me in Hebrew to stop so they could question me but since I couldn't understand it and didn't realize they were talking to me I kept going. Eventually they caught up and yelled at me, so I turned and said I didn't know much Hebrew. The guard asked for my passport, and had me walk back up closer to the House to question me for maybe 20 minutes. They said my big backpack looked suspicious, so I opened it up and showed them the inside. Since I told them I was visiting my cousin they needed his information to confirm what I said, so they called him up and chatted a bit.

Saturday, November 22, 2014

Exposing Taglit-Birthright Israel as the propaganda machine it really is.

*** Rough Draft: Please read and give me feedback!***


***2017 Update:

Sadly Cracked.com have stopped their monthly emails to me asking for a shorter, better version. My procrastination got the best of me and it never came to fruition :(

Also note that "Exposing..." was originally meant to be just a temporary working title, as it's way too sensationalist. But I never got around to choosing another title, so I'll stick with it.

This will probably be my last and final update aside from adding links to the bottom as time passes with new insights and news from Palestine.



***February 11th, 2016
Ugh... ok, ok. I procrastinate very badly. I've been meaning to link the published piece to this page for a while now but here it is!
http://www.exposingtruth.com/a-deep-and-skeptical-look-at-my-israeli-birthright-trip/

I got that published back in September, exactly on Yom Kippur, the Jewish Holiday for atoning for our sins.

In the meantime Cracked.com contacted me asking to write a shorter version... which I've been procrastinating on. They gave me no deadlines but that's a double edged sword when you have ADHD. Meanwhile the cold and lack of sunlight in Fall and Winter in Europe made me slow, sluggish and increasingly depressed, which prevented me from getting much done on this.

Now however I'm in the warm and sunny Puerto Rico where the climate has energized me to actually get something done. If all goes well the Cracked.com piece will be ready by March 1st.

I also have two friends helping me, GG, who did Birthright with me, and SG, who I met in Israel after my Birthright.




*** Update September 22, 2015: It's been ten months since I wrote this essay and it's still a massive brain dump of disorganization full of grammar and spelling errors, as I've been too busy traveling to work on the essay. But the good news is that I now have free time and I'm working on fixing it in the next couple weeks, so be aware that the contents may change. Some parts, especially with asterisks (*), indicate notes to myself to elaborate or edit something. 

Please also check out this page where I have collected much of the feedback I've received on this essay.
http://michaelbrocenos.blogspot.com/2015/06/birthright-essay-critiques-and-reviews.html


*** Update January 18, 2015: It's been almost two months since the end of my Birthright trip and I still have not completed this essay. You may have found it after reading the other blog entries that I shared and scrolled down in my blog’s website. I don't want to share it yet, I'm intentionally trying to keep it hidden for now. Perhaps a private google document readable by invitation only would have been more secure but it's too late now.

You should know that this is still largely in its original form, a massive brain dump I composed all within the 72 hours immediately following the end of Birthright. I've barely touched it since. It's in severe need of editing and revision; sorry for the formatting mess, teach me how it works! My plan is to fix it up and make two versions, one long and one short, before unveiling it to my Facebook friends, other social media platforms, and also our Birthright Facebook group. Eventually I want to polish it well enough that news networks or blogs pick up and publish but that's a long way off.

I've sent this essay to many friends and family, both sympathetic and critical of my views, to have them give me feedback, which has been overwhelming. I'm still trying to sort through all the critiques and suggestions, almost two months after Birthright ended. The best feedback I've received so far simply suggested studying "Politics and the English Language" by George Orwell (1946) to correct my grammar, better connect ideas, and structure my sentences around clearer verbs. My attempt at a boring essay without over-emotional rhetoric ended up with way too many passive verbs.

I also haven’t revised it since first writing it because I’ve been very busy volunteering and living at a hostel in Jaffa, as well as listening to other views. So many diverse opinions have came and went at my hostel, both foreigners and Israelis, that I’ve learned so much and I’m very thankful for the rich discussions I’ve had here.

I guess it's safe to assume that you've read my blog and so you know my travels since Birthright ended. But I haven't updated it for over a month, and there's something I'm hesitating to disclose since I haven't finished my essay yet but I'll tell you anyway.

A month ago, Thursday December 4th, I went to a meeting of All That's Left, an organization of diaspora Jews opposed to the occupation.

I shared my essay on their private google group forum.
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/allthatsleft

Two days later, I realized that I was blocked from our Birthright Facebook group, so I made a post about that on facebook asking my Birthright peer leaders Dana and Jeffrey if they knew what happened, which they did not. They couldn't even invite me back into the group.

I had to email my trip organizer, Israel Outdoors, to have them fix the issue, which they did successfully. I am now back in the group and can post and comment without hassle.


One possibility is that some intelligence agency watching All That’s Left found my post, and had some high up boss of Birthright block me from the group to prevent me from spreading dissenting opinions with the group. It also may be a Birthright institutional policy to ban participants who link to "terrorist" labeled newsnetworks in the Facebook group, which I did citing Electronic Intifada. Or one of the Facebook admins of the group was simply an asshole. I don’t know how long it took for them to do this but I found out about it within 48 hours. If the first scenario, perhaps some low paid worker re-added me to the Birthright group without the high up boss knowing, because Israel Outdoors didn’t know anything when I asked them about the blocking. Of course, I cannot prove these speculations but maybe I can find out a way to test my hypothesis or learn more some way. Please let me know if you are aware of anything related to this, thank you.

I haven’t disclosed this to many people because I want to finish my essay first and include this story at the end but perhaps I’ll share it sooner because my essay is getting nowhere.


Article about Israeli intelligence collecting here, relevant to this story:


Article about
Facebook and Israel teaming up to censor posts

Note to self: Paper about IDF using critical theory for their military tactics



***


As cited in Wikipedia, "Taglit-Birthright Israel (Hebrew: תגלית), also known as Birthright Israel or simply Birthright, is a not-for-profit educational organization that sponsors free ten-day heritage trips to Israel for Jewish young adults, aged 18–26."

Translation: Birthright is a "carefully programmed propaganda exercise," in the words of activist Noam Chomsky's email to me, meant to revitalize Zionism among young adult American Jews, get us to like and support Israel, and ignore the oppression of Palestinians.

**Note to self: define propaganda, cite Walter Lippmann and Edward Bernays in addition to Chomsky and Herman's Manufacturing Consent. If I want to name Birthright as a "propaganda machine" I must define what I mean by propaganda.
https://www.reddit.com/r/chomsky/comments/3lxfp9/does_chomsky_define_propaganda_anywhere_im/

The following is my perspective of my Birthright experience. It is my intent to 1) Expose Birthright to show what it really is: a method of propaganda serving an oppressive state; and 2) To demonstrate that both Israelis and Palestinians are responsible for terrorism, with Israel bearing responsibility for more of it.

Preface

To start, I want to acknowledge my privileges and state that I am a white, straight cismale of American nationality. Like many white men in the US, I am protected from and ignorant of the harsh realities that many in the Global South suffer through everyday as a result of exploitation by the North. I have the choice to write, or not write, this essay. No matter how much I try to uncover my biases some will remain because racism and other power structures permeate throughout society in ways many of us do not even realize. It is my goal in this essay to expose what I see is a tool of the white supremacy to reinforce its power. My success in this depends on my own critical thinking yet I appreciate the help, critique, or even rambling diatribes from anyone who wants to voice their opinion to me. I may edit and revise this essay in the future. Thank you for reading and commenting.

Paraphrasing Noam Chomsky, my privileges confer opportunity and thus responsibility. What I do with this is my choice, remain silent or call out injustices when I see them. It is especially important for me to speak out because my privileges mean I am not as likely to be thrown in prison for dissenting, Israel is a country associated with my religion and culture, and I am immune to the anti-Semite label as I am Jewish myself. Since there aren't many Jews and even fewer Jews who are knowledgable and/or confident enough to speak out, I must raise my voice.

Israel-Palestine gets a lot of media attention thanks to the efforts of grass-roots activism. However it should be highlighted that anti-Semitism is a huge driver for this as well, which is despicable.

With that said, I am not anti-Semitic nor do I support anti-Semitism. Do not confuse hating Israel with hating Jews. Israel and Jews are two different categories that represent two different groups of people that do not always overlap. Just as criticizing the Christian countries that invaded the Middle East during the Crusades does not make one anti-Christian, criticizing Israel does not make one anti-Jewish.

While I do not like many of the Israeli government's policies, I do not think there are secret elite Jews in control of the world. This is as absurd as conspiracy theories like the 9/11 hoax, fluoride in the water poisoning us all, chemtrails from planes dumbing us down, the moon landing hoax, the Illuminati, Freemasons, or lizard people controlling the world. (The psychology of conspiratorial thinking is actually quite interesting.) Please do not group me with such people.

But lets consider what conspiracy means. A corporation 'conspires' how to make a profit. Internet companies like Facebook and YouTube conspire ways to capitalize on our attention and profit from our procrastination. Fossil fuel corporations conspire to fund global warming denial to continue exploiting the environment. It's clear the US conspired to invade Iraq for oil. The right wing conspires to restrict access to safe abortions as a method to control women. The difference between these and the previous paragraph is that there is myriad evidence from reliable sources confirming their validity. I hope to demonstrate here that the notion of Birthright Israel as a propaganda machine is not an absurdity but is in fact a reality.

The idea that the Israeli/Jewish lobby controls US policy is a myth. While it exists it is not powerful enough to influence U.S. policy. It is not Israel that is controlling the United States but rather the reverse, it's clear that Israel is a client state, a sort of colony of the United States global empire in its quest for control of the oil rich Middle East. Although Israel has little or no oil of its own, it's military might squashes anyone who dissents from US-Israeli hegemony.

I would like to take the time to say that I am not only critical of Israel but in fact just about every country. United States for example is far more of a criminal as it is leading our species off a cliff with the climate crisis, which is my point of focus as an environmental activist. My focus on Israel is simply because I was in Israel for four months over the 2014-15 winter, I am Jewish, and since I want to voice my concern as citizen of the United States, which supplies Israel with 3 billion dollars in military aid annually making Israel leading recipient of such aid.

Most people working with Birthright I bet are genuinely good people who believe they are doing the right thing of supporting Israel. However just because they have good intentions does not let them off the hook. They may not realize the effect Birthright has on indoctrinating us into a very narrow system of thought. In sociological terms this is referred to as institutionalization of ideology. Created, enforced, and benefited by power structures, misinformation or a culture that creates misinformation permeates throughout a system to perpetuate social norms. It is similar to how many Americans sincerely believed the US government liberated Iraq in the name of freedom rather than to control the immense amounts of oil there. Likewise, I'm sure there are plenty of Republican Senators who truly believe global warming is a myth despite copious evidence otherwise.  Delusion goes all the way to the top sometimes but that does not mean we should judge people only by their intents and excuse the effects.

Regarding this, for example, racists are probably the last group of people to identify as racist since it requires a certain degree of self-awareness that racists do not have. Acting as a racist requires a lack of empathy for people of color and thus a lack of understanding of the effect of one's actions on other people. It is not an intentional act of evil but rather a manifestation of subconscious ideology. Not being racist is thus not an identity but rather a continuous process that requires self-evaluation of one’s thoughts and behaviors. I for example try to check my privileges as a white, straight male by catching myself stereotyping and then analyzing how subconscious thoughts make me act and think in racist ways. Additionally, and more pertinent to this essay, I am still learning about racism embedded within society’s legal and power structures. I am not “not racist” but rather I advocate “anti-racism.”

Because of the pervasiveness of ideology, there is no definite line between my criticisms of Birthright and Israel itself. And since Birthright takes us all over Israel to very specific places that work with Birthright but not necessarily for it, my criticisms may extend beyond the program and to the Israeli government, policies, and culture.

When I accuse Israel of war crimes in this essay I am not accusing the people living in Israel but rather the head politicians, CEO's and executives of multinational corporations and financial institutions. Perhaps I should have been more careful with my language. There are many different groups of people within Israel, working class to ruling class, some of which are more responsible than others. I do not mean to guilt-trip the workers of Birthright or the State of Israel, I do not blame them as it is not their fault but instead are complicit in an institution governed by the ruling class, affectionately known as the one percent by Occupy Wall Street.

Moreover, institutionalization can enforce decisions without coersion, creating business or governmental policies, laws, or culture that support power structures. Power seeks more power, and wants to retain and protect power, even without any explicit directions. If a behavior is conducive to attaining greater power, this behavior will be cultivated to squash out behaviors that do not serve power, often subconsciously. No self awareness is necessary to attaining greater power, so an evil mastermind with a conspiratorial scheme concocting ways to exploit the poor is not required for oppression. It simply happens on a systemic level with many in the business class having no idea that their actions are creating inequality, as competition for money and power blinds people in the business class to the consequences that do not directly affect them. This is why power structures in Palestine serve Israel, not the Palestinian people (sources below in essay), even if they are labeled as Palestinian. The fighting is not nation versus nation but rather concentrated power versus the people.

Similarly, the United States and British support of oppressive dictators in the Middle East and their Islamic fundamentalism has benefited the power elite by creating a scapegoat to justify Middle East imperialism. For example, the US supports the Saudi Arabian dictatorship, which in turn supports the spread of Islamic fundamentalism in the Middle East. Then, the Islamic fundamentalism is used by the US and Britain as a reason to invade Iraq. Bush II knew going into his Iraq war that it would most likely result in more terrorism from fundamentalist Islam (Chomsky, Noam. "Chapter 5: The Iraq Connection." Hegemony or Survival: America's Quest for Global Dominance ;. New York: Metropolitan, 2004. 81-83. Print.), which ended up as today's ISIS that continues to distract us as Iraqis suffer. The use of this immense and illegal act of power helped create the harsh regimes both in North America and the Middle East, both of which help each other gain more power over the people they rule over. Accumulation of power results as working people lose self-determination.

An often heard counter point to those criticizing Israel is that because I don't live in Israel or that I've never been, I can't criticize it. Well, for starters, I was in Israel for three and a half months and the West Bank for an additional two weeks, so, however weak, that part of the argument is negated. Secondly, in the age of information I don't think it is valid to say that because I have never been I cannot have an opinion. Just as how if the Queen of England gets sick it's all over the news five thousand miles away within hours, if Israel kills over two-thousand Palestinians, most of them civilians including children, like they did this past summer in Operation Protective Edge, we can hear about it thanks to reliable sources with modern technology on the ground like the United Nations. Finally, to pose an analogy, I'm sure the reader and I both can agree that North Korea is a horrifying totalitarian regime yet neither of us have been there.

To the inevitable rebuttal that I am being divisive, alienating fellow Jews, friends and family, it should be remembered that divisiveness can go both ways. As Jewish Holocaust survivor Elie Wiesel says, “We must always take sides. Neutrality helps the oppressor, never the victim. Silence encourages the tormentor, never the tormented.” By remaining silent we let Israel continue to oppress and marginalize Palestinians, further dividing them from ourselves. It is our choice to be divisive against the rich and powerful or the poor and oppressed. Personally, I would rather be an ally to those struggling against Palestinian apartheid.

On the question of whether Jews deserve a homeland, sure. It's fine for a group of people like Jews who have been persecuted for centuries to seek refuge in a common land. But like most cases power corrupts and to erect a religious State, kick out the former inhabitants, destroy their homes, and kill thousands of them is not congruent with the Judaism I adhere to. In the late 19th and early 20th century there was a strong movement among Jews in Israel aiming to not build a powerful state and instead focus on small, local, self-governing communities that got along well with the people already living there (Libertarian socialism). This was a form of Israel I would happily endorse, not the despotic regime that's in place today.

While I am very critical throughout this whole essay, I want to say that I did enjoy myself. I was not a cold-hearted robot looking for a fight. I mean, sure, they make the program very fun and entertaining, gave us our bread and circuses, so we don't question the official story. Snorkeling in the Red Sea, riding camels, floating in the Dead Sea, eating so much delicious food at the best hotels in Israel, making tons of friends, hanging out with people who also come from Jewish backgrounds, singing together on bus rides, this was all a spectacular experience I will surely remember forever. But life isn't black and white. While I will accept the good parts of Birthright I will also critique the bad. This essay is for criticizing.

At times in this essay I cite Wikipedia simply because it provides a good overview of topics the reader may not know about, like tzitzit, the fringes on the edge of clothing worn by observant Jews. Perhaps if this essay gets popular I will edit out Wikipedia references to something more scholarly but for the sake of simplicity I will leave it.

***

General overview

Our Birthright trip had forty diverse participants all from various parts of the United States ranging from the urban Manhattan to rural Montana, practicing Jews wearing tzitzit to atheist-Jews who love bacon, dreadlocked herbalists to frat boy bro-dudes, and the political left, center, and right. It was mixed gender with over half the group women, and of the eight Israeli IDF (Israeli Defense Force) soldiers that spent half of the trip with us five of them were men. We got along so well that our guides told us that we were among the best programs they've ever led, with no significant drama I can recall, no cliques separating us, and plenty of lifelong friendships made. In addition to the forty of us and eight IDF soldiers, we had two staff leaders around our age who have recently graduated from Birthright to act as basically a laid back RA or camp counselor to help out, an older bus driver in his 50's or 60's, and an older guide in his 60's with us the whole ten days.

After Birthright ends there is an option to extend the return flight back home in order to stay in Israel and travel, volunteer or work. Over half of us chose to stay in Israel after the trip for either just a few days or a few months. I forfeited my return flight entirely, because the return flight has to take you back to where you came from and I wanted to continue traveling to other countries instead.

Right away at the start, we had to do lots of ice breakers and group discussions, similar to what RA's do with college students in the first week of school, or what camp counselors do to strengthen community bonding, in which we all had to participate. These continued throughout the program despite initial dislike among the group for having to do such childish activities. Such activities work however to bring the group close together, reinforce ideas, effectively inhibiting dissent. By the end of the program many of us were very close friends, we all had great conversations with almost everyone in the group. Given a strong community, we are less likely to act in anti-social behavior. And since we were fed a diet of very biased information, it quickly cemented our thought about Israel with each other.

I do not oppose community bonding but I disagree with using it to feed information to us. Instead we should all be co-creators of information through group discussion, finding and sharing what we learn to build our own education. This would have provided solid foundation for individual and critical thinking to learn about Israel ourselves.

Our guide Maxi was probably selected for his penchant for rambling and vocally bulldozing anyone else's audible thoughts with his words, thereby instituting the banking-model of education that curtails questioning (Freire, Pedagogy of the Oppressed). When I tried to speak up during a discussion on gender in Judaism he cut me off in front of everyone. When asked a question he doesn't know the answer to he rambles on long tangents instead of admitting he doesn't know. Although most of us professed our love for his immense knowledge I and a few others were less than impressed.

You can only go on Birthright if you haven't gone on other group trips or tours, so for many Jews this is their only education about Israel. Unfortunately it's a very biased education that leaves a lot of information out.

They shepherd us around, kept us restricted from leaving certain areas. When going to the big cities of Tel Aviv and Jerusalem they kept us at fully catered hotels on the outskirts, preventing us from wandering off into the city to explore on our own. To be fair, these hotels on the outskirts may have been cheaper than the ones in the city center but they could have hosted us in twenty dollar a night hostels in the middle of the city too like in the enormous Abraham Hostel in down-town Jerusalem that has over 250 beds.

While it wasn't too extreme to the point where we all noticed and spoke about it, there was an aura of treating us like kids. For example, they served us grape juice instead of the traditional wine for Shabbat, the Jewish Sabbath. While the official rules Birthright set only let us get alcohol at very specific times, it was soon realized it was easier to ask for forgiveness than permission and we drank when we wanted though respected the program by keeping our drinking to ourselves without belligerence. We we all over 21 except for one twenty-year-old but he didn't drink anyway for medical reasons. Friends of mine from back home who have done Birthright before told me that despite the no alcohol rule there is always plenty of drinking anyway.




Day one, Monday: travel day

My flight out of the United States was Sunday, November 9th out of JFK airport in New York City. I stayed up the whole night previous because I procrastinated packing and I can't sleep on planes, so I was awake for over two days straight. We flew into Ben Gurion Airport in central Israel and then took a long bus ride up to the far northeast corner at a kibbutz in Golan Heights near the Sea of Galilee. During our final discussion of the day I was falling asleep and practically sleep walking towards my bed.



Day two, Tuesday: Golan; Olive oil consumerism/infomercial/green washing; Visit the Syrian border; musician and side racist comments

To start the day off we all went in our Birthright bus to go check out the countryside. Being close to the Syrian border, there were remnants of fighting in the past with warning signs for land-mines planted there decades ago. We were told the mines were Russian made and Syrian planted but I later found out they were put there by Israel. I ate a olive picked from a tree, which is incredibly bitter if not soaked in water first, a carob fruit, and we had an ice breaker to build community bonding. During a hike we stopped at a water hole for a swim among cow pastures and waterfalls.

For lunch we drove to what appeared to be a shopping mall where there was practically nobody there save for us. Birthright trips, which serve 40,000 participants every year, routinely go to the same places where businesses hungrily await and depend on us. After lunch we got a tour of a factory that uses the parts of the olive not used for olive oil to make a skin care product, watched their infomercial, and tried some free samples. It's clearly greenwashing, providing the illusion that capitalism can be sustainable and making it seem environmentally friendly to gain the business of eco-conscious people. While it's true they use the part of the olive that traditionally gets thrown away after making olive oil, they still use monoculture and pesticides for an unnecessary beauty product. Some of us gave in and bought it.

At sunset we climbed up a mountain to an Israeli fort turned tourist center (picture) by the Syrian border where we could see into Syria and hear the fighting going on there echoing through the valley.

That night an Israeli musician, Gilad Vital of the band Shotei Hanevua, came to our kibbutz to play for us. Apparently the guy is pretty famous in Israel who's popular song "Ein Ani" we ended up singing over and over again on the bus throughout the ten days . He made a side comment that all Arabs hate Jews, which I find is generalizing an entire group of people and is thus racist and a friend of mine called him out on it. This evolved into a debate between him and the musician, with a few other people chiming in. Nobody raised their voice or got mad yet you could cut the tension in the room with a knife. It eventually fizzled out as people got tired of listening to the debate and the music resumed with lots of dancing.

At the end of the show, a few people stayed after to finalize the debate with closing remarks and apologies, which went well I think. After the musician left a few of us continued talking and I found solace in a few other people who had similarly critical views of Israel,who I continued to vent with throughout the trip.



Day three, Wednesday: city of Zefat/Safed; Gilad Shalit propaganda

We visited the city of Zefat (pronounced Tseh-FAHT) and went to a synagogue for a talk and activity with a rabbi there. The holy books of Judaism, like the Talmud, Kabbalah, and Torah, were displayed on tables in front of us as we sat in rows in rapt attention. As the rabbi talked about the philosophical and ethical questions raised by the books he segued into the story of the IDF soldier Gilad Shalit. Hamas (who I do not support, for the record) kidnapped him outside Gaza on June 25th, 2006 and held him prisoner for five years with the demand that Israel release a thousand Palestinians (many but not all of them terrorists). Whether or not Israel should trade a thousand prisoners for Shalit was sensationalized and debated for five years in the media. Our activity with the rabbi was to apply the ethics of Judaism to this debate.

Jewish ethics were boring me, so I decided to do some research on my own. Who were those involved? Why did they do what they did? And what more did they do? Apparently they weren't telling us the the whole story.

Two Palestinians, Osama and Mustafa Muamar, were abducted by the IDF one day before Shalit was, according to the BBC, The Guardian, and Al Jazeera. The Shalit kidnapping was a response to it. Why aren't we arguing the ethics of this? Chomsky discusses this here and here.

**note to self: give more context about the prisoners. Israel holds several thousands at a time. many of these one thousand Hamas was asking for have been in prison for decades.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palestinian_prisoners_of_Israel#Number_of_prisoners
http://www.btselem.org/statistics/detainees_and_prisoners

Israel distracted people with the Shalit story and held a thousand prisoner for five years during which Operation Cast Lead, Israel's war against Gaza December 2008 to January 2009, led to the deaths of over a thousand Palestinians, almost a thousand of whom were civilians, thousands more injured and tens of thousands more displaced. Compare this with the thirteen Israelis, three of them civilians, that died and less than a thousand Israelis injured. According to the vague definitions of terrorism Israeli Prime Minister Netanyahu gives, Israel participates in terrorism itself and thus more terrorism come from Israel, not Palestinians. This pattern repeats itself over and over again throughout every "war" Israel faces against Palestine. It is not a war, as that word blurs the conflict into a supposed fight between two equal forces, but it is in fact an outright massacre by the Israeli oppressors against the oppressed Palestinians.

Further adding to the story, Shalit's family plagiarized another author, according to HaaretzBBC, and Norman Finkelstein, to publish their a children's book Shalit wrote when he was eleven-years-old, capitalizing on their new found fame. Granted I can excuse an eleven-year-old from plagiarizing, it's worth noting.

Later on we visited an artist who incorporates Jewish numerology with his Modernist artwork. Nothing political at all happened, save for when I asked him about political artists and he said he didn't like politics.

We then visited a synagogue that keeps women and men separated. The Rabbi and our guide told us this was important to do so men could remain focused on prayer and not be distracted by women. Since men apparently can't control themselves, women are controlled by men and the males only rabbi position. Sexism and patriarchy thus persist in Israel and Judaism.

(Update: it was only when I stayed in Israel for a month after Birthright that I was surprised to learn that probably 99% of synagogues in Israel separate women and men, much higher than I thought having grown up with a liberal Reconstructionist synagogue where not only are women and men mixed in the congregation but lesbians and gays can be rabbis.)



Day four, Thursday: Tel Aviv; History of Israel

In Tel Aviv we went to the original home and now museum of Theodore Herzl, the founder of modern Zionism who posed the idea of a Jewish nation in the 1895 book Der Judenstaat. We were given a video lecture plus a live lecture with the same information, effectively ensuring that it's drilled into our minds. While I had many questions, they gave us no time for questions and rushed us out the door. Nobody else seemed bothered by this.

In the room of the live lecture, Theodore Hertzl's photograph was erected for us all to stare at. See the picture here of the idolatry, which is supposed to be not accepted in Judaism. He had wanted a poor man's funeral with minimum attention, so this is a slap in the face to him. Herzl was also an atheist advocating a secular state and a socialist, specifically a mutualist, meaning he advocated no bosses and instead worker collective control of businesses in a market society. No doubt he would be disgusted by the capitalist Israel that exists today in which has the fourth highest child poverty rate in the developed world.

With regard to the content given to us, it ignored the vibrant Jewish and Israeli anarchism (No government and no capitalism, a classless society with no bosses and no one in power. You might be an anarchist but not know it.) and coexistence with Palestinians in late 19th and early 20th century, remnants of which today exist as kibbutzim, slowly dying away thanks to capitalism and many other factors. The kibbutzim weren't a paradise however, as the best land was given to the white Ashkenazi Jews from Europe while the darker skinned Mizrahim of the Middle East were marginalized. Of course, it also ignored any reference to Palestinians unless they were fighting against Israel.

After this eight IDF soldiers joined us where they stayed with us for part of the trip, so we can get to know them on a personal level and learn all about how human the IDF is, as if it is not a killing machine.

That night we were driven from out hotel on the outskirts of Tel Aviv to downtown where we were allowed to spend a few hours drinking at bars. It took forever to find a place with cheap beer in the expensive city, but eventually we found one. I should say that Tel Aviv is unusually LGBT friendly, and is known as one of the gay capitals of the world. We went to a fun lesbian bar for cheap drinks and dancing, for example.



Day five, Friday: Jerusalem, Western Wall

Touring the hills on the outskirts of the city, our guide pointed to an Arab village without any walls around it to claim that Arabs and Muslims can live free in Israeli democracy. This however ignores the Palestinian bantustans in the West Bank and the occupation of Gaza, which Israel controlled everything that goes in and out down to the calorie amount per person to restrict access to food.

Also, Israel is definitely not a democracy when only a few elite people can have a say, a tyranny similar to the United States. Democracy and capitalism in fact can't coexist (This goes beyond the scope of my essay. Here's a good introduction to why this is.).

When we visited the Western Wall there were tons of Israeli soldiers. A few weeks ago Arabs were throwing things down from the top of the wall to the bottom at Jews, so Israel ramped up security.

You may have heard about the recent terrorist attack in Jerusalem, right? It happened the day after we left Jerusalem. Well there's more context to the story. To make a long story short, there's been a lot of fighting on both sides, and most of the terrorism is coming from Israel against the Palestinians as I've said above. And the stories in the mass media lacked context, like when a Palestinian stabbed an Israeli, a deeper look revealed that it was a Palestinian woman defending herself from an male Israeli settler on Palestinian land.

Palestinians were protecting the Dome of the Rock, a holy building for Muslims, from Israelis throwing rocks at it (only heard about Israelis throwing rocks in passing, can't find source for it**). In response Palestinians attacked Jews at the Western Wall. IDF and police then stormed the Wall and Palestinian resistance, fights broke out in the street, and the IDF put blimps in the sky to watch over them panopticon/big brother style as seen in these two pictures, onetwo, manifesting as psychological terrorism to prevent people from disobeying their rulers. A Palestinian man was stabbed by an Israeli, then Israelis were bombed, then a Palestinian bus driver was hanged.


I asked our guide why we weren't visiting the Dome of the Rock and he said that Birthright is a Jewish trip, so we only go to Jewish places, part of the strict schedule teaching us just enough about Israel. After Birthright I visited the Dome of the Rock on my own during the strict hours allowed for visiting. While there I saw IDF soldiers scattered around chatting amongst themselves, Muslims praying and happily singing, and a few stray cats. I didn't know at the time but I learned afterwards that the Muslim community there doesn't want their holy site flooded with tourists, so it's disrespectful to go. 

For lunch we spent a few hours in a Jerusalem market. We were instructed to buy food we don't know or know little about that we could share with the group later that night. After dinner we crowded into a tiny room and shared the food together, going around to each person to taste it and have a big party trying each other's foreign food. It was fun, a great way for us to bond together.

We also sat around in a circle and did this activity where we throw a ball of string around to each person until it formed a giant web connecting everyone with the string wrapped around each person's wrist. With each person we threw it to we had to share something we liked about that person. It too was a fantastic method of community bonding, literally tying ourselves together. At the end of the activity we cut off the string and tied it around our wrist like in this picture, symbolizing our newly formed Birthright friendships lasting forever. One of our peer group leaders told us to keep it on our wrist as long as you can to remind yourself of the Birthright experience, and when it finally falls off months later she suggested to post it as a Facebook status that it fell off to share with Birthright friends.



Day six, Saturday: Shabbat at hotel outside Jerusalem

Since it was Shabbat we stayed at the hotel all day on the outskirts of Jerusalem without driving anywhere, occupying our time with discussions, swimming in the hotel's pool, and nature walks around the property.

During all this time I documented my observations in preparation for this essay, keeping my views mostly to myself save for a couple other dissenters and curious friends. Most people wouldn't have been able to accept my cursory notes at face value, as there was much of it that required former knowledge.

I was able to convince one of our group leaders (not the older guide but the leaders our age) for us to have a political discussion during one of our many get togethers.

I presented my views, citing the Gilad Shalit propaganda as my leading example for my argument that Israel was responsible for the most terrorism. Instead of people asking me further questions they instead told me their views (as if I'm wrong and don't know better) and agreed with each other without critically thinking. A prime example of this is when an IDF soldier casually mentioned that Hamas uses human shields when firing at Israel. I was alone to interject and ask if she was sure this was true to which she flatly rebutted that it was. Subsequently I cited this NYTimes article that claims it isn't true, corroborated by the BBC's Middle East editor, The Guardian, and The Independent. Reuters even claims that if anyone is using human shields it is in fact Israel.

Another IDF soldier said Israel warns Gazans of incoming attacks by dropping papers over the area ahead of time that say to leave the area. However, Israeli journalist Amira Hass says this practice is "sadism" as the "recorded message demanding hundreds of thousands of people leave their already targeted homes, for another place, equally dangerous, 10 kilometers away."

One of the few other dissenters among us brought up an Amnesty International report that accused Israel of war crimes. However, one of our group leaders pointed out that the author of one of the Amnesty International reports has been repeatedly accused of anti-Semitism. I found this Israel Today article that calls out AI's anti-Semitism though much is conflating anti-Israel with anti-Jew and it doesn't point to one author. It does bring up some serious points however that I can accept as anti-semitism if verifiable. Regardless, that article does not deny that Israel is responsible for war crimes and the accusers are only anti-Semitic because they don't like Israel, which is absurd. And many other organizations like Human Rights Watch also accuse Israel of war crimes.

The right leaning Israel Today, by the way, is owned by Sheldon Adelson, who is one of the main donators to Birthright Israel with over $180 million coming from him. He has been quoted as approving Newt Gingrich's remarks that the Palestinians are an "invented people," and was a staunch backer of Gingrich and then Mitt Romney during the 2012 campaign.

Returning to the group discussion, when someone pointed out that Israel receives billions of dollars in military aid our peer group leader countered that millions of United States dollars go to aid Palestine as well. To their credit, it is true, but the amount of aid has declined over the past couple decades and corruption was "encouraged by Israel," according to the USIP and the book International Assistance to the Palestinians after Oslo by Anne Le More, summarized here by Electronic Intifada. Moreover, international law requires that the occupier must provide for the occupied land however the United States and the European Union are paying instead of Israel, thereby subsidizing Israel's war crimes.

That same peer group leader also said that because Hamas fires hundreds of rockets they should be held accountable to the extent that each rocket was fired with the intent to kill people. I question the value of basing our judgements solely off of intention and not effect. There's a lot of debate between consequentialist and deontological ethics. Surely Hamas knows, for example, how ineffective their poorly built rockets are and don't think that each rocket will kill. On the other side, while IDF soldiers may believe they have intentions of peace, their commanders certainly do not.

The discussion overall didn't go as well as I hoped since it was dominated by rhetoric supporting Israel though it remained civil throughout. There was only one person who said I "offended them," just a few other people who openly questioned Israel's role, and even fewer people who asked me questions. Despite the copious notes I took, I only got to talk about a small portion of them. It ended well at least with someone thanking me for offering other perspectives and suggesting that we should all watch out for confirmation bias, so that we don't blindly accept what aligns with our beliefs. I also apologized for offending anyone.

Afterwards our guide gave us a tour of plant life outside hotel. I overheard him casually criticizing that Israeli retirement age is lower for women, saying it's sexist against men. He ignored sexism that makes it harder for women to earn money, like the pay gap, and that a lower retirement age for women is alleviating that.

We then had a discussion about the Holocaust to prepare for our visit to the Holocaust museum the following day. Since I only brought up dissenting viewpoints a few hours ago, I feared that people might think I was a Holocaust denier, which I am not. Interestingly though people brought up the subject early on in the discussion. I felt awkward, wondering if people thought that of me though I kept quiet (it was very cold and I could barely hear anyone due to the wind) and told only a few people.

Some of my dissenting friends brought up that as Jews we should not only prevent another Holocaust from happening to us but also to other people. Other genocides like the American Indian, Armenian, and Kurdish populations should be talked about with the Holocaust. It's almost as if Jewish ethnocentrism tends to ignore other genocides.

That night the Israeli Historian Iftah Burman of Middle East Learning Academy came visit us. He presented the "critical" perspective, the "doves" as Chomsky calls, as far left as they will allow us to get to make us think we are given the other perspective while still remaining center.

One obvious mistake he made was presenting the Western Media as left wing whereas it's in fact right wing (see the Propaganda Model, proposed in Herman and Chomsky's Manufacturing Consent). A common belief is to suppose that a violent media attracts more viewers and thus more money, so portraying Israel as more and more violent will gain more viewers as the media gets further critical Israel (or the United States, or any country). However this model commits the mistake that the viewers are the consumers paying for violent media, whereas in fact the viewers are the product and the consumers are the corporations buying airtime for advertisements. Given this economic model and basic laws of supply and demand, the media corporations such as CNN will only stay in business if they appeal to the demands of their customers, the corporations. Thus, corporations have a say in what is and what isn't news. Given that politicians can't get elected without corporate money, it's safe to say corporations effectively control both the government and the media and are both increasingly right wing. While Israel may be portrayed as violent the majority of the news portrays Muslims as more violent, which is patently false as shown elsewhere in this essay.

Chief among Burman's errors is his ignoring of much of Israeli violence and oppression. A good book highlighting this is Bad News From Israel by Greg Philo and Mike Berry. In addition, consider for example the long line of US vetoes of UN resolutions on Israel. They're pretty hair-raising. For instance, check out this General Assembly Resolution of 1988, which the US can't veto, that condemns Israel for using 'poison gas' to 'exterminate Palestinian children.'

While seemingly trivial it's a grave error to mix the usage of rockets and missiles, which ignores that Israel has a massive upper hand that's led to many deaths. Missiles are computer guided and only used by Israel, whereas rockets are uncontrollable and only used by Palestine.

He praised the Iron Dome despite that it's media hype and military industry profit. While it's true that most of the time Iron Dome has launched it has worked, it's only needed to work 20% of the time because most rockets are too far off course for Israelis to worry about. The occupation that controls what goes in and out of Gaza down to the calories consumed, as cited above, was ignored, as was the transportation of basic economic necessities, not just rockets, through the Gaza's tunnels. The icing on the cake was that when I asked him for his thoughts on the political work of Noam Chomsky, who has written extensively in critique of Israel and support for Palestinians, he said "Chomsky is not a historian," despite never even reading his work.



Day seven, Sunday. Holocaust museum, Mount Herzl.
(Again I'm not a Holocaust denier, don't confuse me)

Holocaust museums alone are haunting, depressing, and makes you feel emotions you never thought you had. To use the Holocaust as a propaganda tool however is grotesque to the worst degree.

We visited Israel's National Holocaust memorial museum in Jerusalem, Yad Vashem, in the morning rain, one of only two times it rained during the program, and after the three hours in the museum we exited to a beautiful sunny day, a perfect symbol for the darkness the Jews suffered coming to an end after WWII.

I was disappointed there was nothing at the end saying we will prevent this from happening again, to anyone else anywhere. There was no talk about other genocides like Kurdish, Armenian, or American Indian. It was a moving museum nonetheless, with beautiful architecture.

Naturally, it impacted us heavily and primed us for the events later that day when we visited Mount Herzl, the burial site of Theodore Herzl, the founder of Modern Zionism.

As I said above, Herzl wanted a poor man's funeral and to be treated as an ordinary person. I told Maxi that Herzl was socialist and his response indicated he has no idea what socialism even is stating that, "Socialism is when you help everyone and Herzl's goal was to just help the Jews, so he was not a socialist."

All over Mount Herzl are the graves of other Israelis where you need to be either an IDF soldier or have a lot of money to be buried on there. Towards the top are the famous rich people, and then we descended to tour IDF graves. 

We stopped by several grave sites of IDF soldiers and read their stories, each one a tale of their life, time in the IDF, and how they died. Photographs, trinkets, and mementos adorned each of their graves, one even with balloons for perhaps a birthday that was never had. Some IDF graves we saw were those of Americans who had joined the IDF after being inspired by Birthright to join, which means Birthright is complicit in their death. (It was just four years ago in 2011 that I had considered joining the IDF myself, before my views were upended when I thankfully found the Left.)

One story in particular was of a soldier who's last conversation with his mom was on the phone. We pulled out our smart phones and heard that very conversation in Hebrew, as the IDF soldiers that were with us translated for us. The now dead IDF soldier in the story had called his Mom to tell her to check the notes section of his phone if something happens to him, implying a goodbye message was written there in case of death.

I ask you now to reflect that the ratio of Palestinians dead to Israelis dead is the inverse of what the mainstream media has you believe. Many more Palestinians have died, each with stories of their own, often dying in the arms of their families.  If our Birthright trip took the time to visit and hear the stories of each person who has died at the hands of the IDF we would be there for months.

I don't mean to cast the deaths of IDF soldiers as meaningless. They are human beings that deserved a full life. But I am simply pointing out that the IDF is just as complicit with compulsory military service for Israelis and has more blood on their hands than Hamas as many more Palestinian civilians have died than Israelis.

Note that this was very calculated that this happened right after Holocaust museum. It effectively gave us a persecution complex to make us feel like everyone hates Jews and justify the atrocities IDF commits. Mount Herzl, however, is right next to the Holocaust Museum, so while it simplifies the program by planning these two activities to happen right after each other, it also shows how deep the propaganda goes and just how pervasive the oppressor's culture is throughout Israel. The persecution complex woven by Israel is in the very fabric of the geography of Israel, they placed the IDF graves next to the Holocaust museum because of the constructed persecution complex. We went to the IDF graves not because Birthright is alone as a propaganda tool but because the geography of Israel is a propaganda tool in itself that works to reinforce ideology for all the citizens of Israel and tourists who visit.

Such practices are not uncommon in Israel, where the Prime Minster Benjamin Netanyahu "frequently invokes the Holocaust in urging the international community to crack down on Iran's nuclear program." In the same vein, the education system has recently began teaching the Holocaust to children as young as first grade despite the resistance from parents, teachers, and psychologists warning that this is too young of an age. Mandatory teaching of the Holocaust started in 1982 after successive wars with neighboring Arab countries and is part of an increasing trend using the genocide as a "political ploy meant to guilt and traumatize children into a certain kind of patriotism."

To abuse the Holocaust story in this way was absolutely disturbing. As someone of a Jewish background, I do not want this done in my name. It sickens me to the bone.

As the sun set atop Mount Herzl and the wind picked up we scurried off to the bus to escape the cold and took the short drive back to our hotel outside Jerusalem.

That night we lightened up the mood by bonding with our IDF soldiers in games. The forty of us split up into four groups of ten to cycle around four different activities. In the first, pairs of us raced each other to put on the IDF uniforms in a celebration of militarism. Apparently some IDF can get dressed in under two minutes as this is drilled into them by their commanders. We then moved on to the next station for a quiz on ethnicity and diversity that downplayed and ignored white supremacy. Flags of other countries dotted an Israeli map from whichever one we chose would give us questions on that ethnicity in Israel. Next up was a dating game with economic buzz words stayed within the mainstream neoliberal economic thought, talking about the high price of living in Tel Aviv. Finally an apolitical session of team puzzles, like the human knot, reinforced friendships and thus ideology.



Day eight, Monday: Masada, Dead Sea, Eilat, we're alone or with privileged people during both. It's a day of plastic, rich people tours for Westerners.

We left the hotel on the outskirts on Jerusalem at dawn after staying there for three nights to see the sun rise atop Mount Masada, an ancient site overlooking the Dead Sea where Herod the Great built his fortress. Our guide spoke much about Jewish history yet nothing about Palestinian history or what was going on in this land during the Ottoman Empire. After the climb down the mountain we entered the Masada tourism complex (see website) for buffet style breakfast, a short documentary on the History of Masada mostly about people of Herod's time played by white people and ignoring Ottoman and Palestinian history. One of the hot topic stories told is that Israelis atop Mount Masada were facing the oncoming wrath of the invading Roman Army. Rather than being caught by them they all committed suicide. This theme that death is better than slavery is symbolic of sacrifice for one's country, a key tenet of Zionism.

We exited through the gift shop and drove on to the salty Dead Sea, the lowest point on Earth where it is so salty the human body stays afloat and cannot stay in longer than fifteen minutes due to blood pressure changes. Swimming in it was fun yet challenging as I was floating far higher than usual and I had to keep my head out of the water to avoid the pain of too much salt in my eyes. Due to its high mineral content, the Dead Sea is a source of extraction and thus environmental issues as Israel and Jordan exploit the resources to make high fashion skin care products and potash. Palestinians however are restricted from visiting our building their own factories along the Dead Sea. It's their land that they can't use or profit from. In response to this, the Boycott, Divestment and Sanctions Movement against Israeli occupation of Palestine calls for boycotting companies making Dead Sea products like Ahava. Ahava, they told us in Birthright, is the only Israeli company exploiting Dead Sea minerals and thus has a monopoly. They told us the chemical process is kept secret and they keep emergency evacuation vehicles on site in case of a chemical spill.

While at the Dead Sea we saw an IDF propellor plane fly from the south to the north along the Israeli-Jordanian border. Given its size I doubt it was acting in defense and was probably either for show or transportation.

Our place of stay at the Dead Sea was clearly a resort for the wealthy, as the only other people there were overweight white people in speedos with expensive clothes.

Before departing we said goodbye to the IDF soldiers that only stayed with us for part of the trip. It was tough leaving them for some of us and we spoke up about how meaningful it was for them to be a part of our journey. Many of us will keep in touch with them on Facebook though as well as the official Birthright Facebook group designated for our trip.

On our bus ride away from the Dead Sea our guide told us the Dead Sea is shrinking due to various factors including humans, where he alluded to climate change. This is when he spouted that there was debate among the scientific community as to whether climate change is caused by humans or not, which is totally false, and makes him a climate denier.

Driving to Eilat we saw a Chai symbol on the side of the desert like one would see a Christian cross in the American South. Perhaps, I mused to myself, this was symbolic of Israel's turn to the right.



Day nine, Tuesday: Eilat, snorkeling in Red Sea, Lotan Kibbutz, Bedouin tents.

We woke up in Eilat to go on a huge yacht in the Red Sea for snorkeling over the coral reefs that are decaying due to human activity that I couldn't even see and saw barely any fish.

These last few days are basically privileged tours for rich people on vacations. Birthright was giving us fun and entertainment while keeping us away from the poor and Palestinians.

The Israeli city of Eilat is at the tip of the Gulf of Aqaba off of the Red Sea, where Egypt, Israel, Jordan and Saudi Arabia converge. Eilat is literally right next to the Jordanian city of Aqaba, which we could clearly see from our yacht. Our guide pointed out the King of Jordan's private villa on the beach of Aqaba and showed us where the King put what he claims is the tallest flag pole in the world. He clearly said this to mock the Jordanians for their antiquated monarchy while celebrating Israel's "democracy." This blatantly ignored how the Israelis painted an enormous flag on their own side (see pic) and that Eilat is a city with a plethora of fancy hotels that cater to the capitalist ruling class.

After lunch we drove up north to Lotan Kibbutz. By visiting a kibbutz we think that the kibbutzim communal life is still thriving, ignoring that it's being wiped out by capitalism and other factors. In fact the kibbutz workers even told us they are in a transition period shifting to a more "modern" style of economy with bosses and paid workers. It was far away in the middle of the Negev Desert, away from any other people.

Our guide kept rambling on about how the Israelis are making better use of the desert by developing it into sustainable agriculture, this is subtle racism implying Jews are better than Muslims. However, desert farming is inherently unsustainable because you will always need resources not from the desert. It's claimed that Muslim countries don't do it because they don't have technology, motivation, or ideology, but it's in fact because they've been here longer and know the land better: that it is stupid to farm in the desert since it is incredibly difficult and unsustainable. Israel farms there because they are trying to colonize as much as possible, and wipe out the Bedouin nomads who have lived in the desert for thousands of generations.

That night we visited a tourist trap that exploits Bedouin culture (website). At long last, we had our first Birthright sanctioned visit with a Muslim, the only one Birthright officially had us meet and he's dressed in full Bedouin garb for us in a traditional tent with non-Bedouin Israeli Jews working the tourist trap (picture). While he tells us he uses modern technologies the setting induces the vibe that we remember. That they are stuck in the past and unchanging. Orientalism and otherization, painting Muslims and Arabs with a broad stroke of a brush to keep them separate and inferior to us. To sleep that night all forty of us crowded together in an "authentic" Bedouin tent with electric lights, heating, mattresses, and blankets.

Given that we've actually met a Muslim this implies Birthright is not about Jewish culture but Israeli culture, so the claim that we are ignoring Palestinians because they aren't part of Birthright's goal of focusing on Judaism is false and instead suggests we are ignoring them on purpose. To avoid listening to the oppressed.

During the time we were there we would occasionally hear IDF planes and helicopters fly overhead. I asked one of the workers there how they like that and they said it gets annoying sometimes when trying to nap.



Day ten, Wednesday: camel riding at Bedouin tents, back to airport.

We woke up at the Bedouin site for a half our camel ride, tied to the camel in front of you without freedom to wander, which is part of the tourist package (picture). It was fun seeing the occasional broken glass and trash along the camel path.

Later we drove off on our bus to hike in the desert to a water hole (picture) during which our guide talked about camel sex, domestication, and evolution.

The Ben Gurion memorial was our next visit, a site dedicated to Israel's first prime minister. Maxi explained how Ben Gurion accepted and gave land and money to white, European Ashkenazi Jews as a repayment from the horrors they suffered under Nazi Germany but gave nothing to the Mizrahim Middle Eastern Jews, which sparked much controversy at the time. However, Maxi ignored Ben Gurion's acknowledgement and approval of colonization:

"Let us not ignore the truth among ourselves ... politically we are the aggressors and they defend themselves... The country is theirs, because they inhabit it, whereas we want to come here and settle down, and in their view we want to take away from them their country." David Ben Gurion, quoted on pp 91-2 of Chomsky's Fateful Triangle, which appears in Simha Flapan's "Zionism and the Palestinians" pp 141-2 citing a 1938 speech.

By evening we made it to Jaffa, the southern part of Tel Aviv, where we wandered around antique shops and markets for a short while before heading to a hotel for our final hours. We crowded into a room to hear a representative talk to us about Masa Israel and Israel Pathways, both of which are more programs we could do as American Jews in Israel. The woman talking to us was around our age it seemed and told us Birthright changed her life so much it made her decide to move to Israel from Toronto, Canada. She was very passionate about what she does.

She left and the boss of our guide came to see us during our final discussion where we all got in a circle and shared what we loved about Birthright, how it changed our lives, and how it was meaningful for us. I was very tempted to talk about politics but I declined to respect the last moments we would all be together. I'm not sure if I regret staying quiet about politics or not. Hopefully this essay will be enough.

We ate a fabulous dinner at the expensive hotel and drove to the airport. Once there it was a mad rush to say our goodbyes and fly off while over half of us were staying in Israel, taking a train elsewhere or a different flight to continue traveling to other countries.

I took a train with a friend and our guide towards Tel Aviv. They were getting off at other stops but I had my own stop at my Dad's friend's place on the outskirts of the city.

***

I'm not sure what kind of an effect this essay will have. Hopefully I have reached my goal and will inspire people to research more into this subject and discover the truth for themselves.


For further information on the propaganda that is Birthright Israel, I recommend checking out these sources:



Activism, demonstrations, and protests because social movements result in social justice.




For further information about the Palestinian struggle, I recommend these books:
  • Anything by Edward Said, especially The Question of Palestine (1979) and After the Last Sky (1986)
  • I Saw Ramallah by Mourid Barghuoti, published 1997
  • The Battle for Justice in Palestine by Ali Abunimah, published 2014
  • Anything by Norman Finkelstein
  • The Fateful Triangle: The United States, Israel and the Palestinians by Noam Chomsky and Gaza in Crisis by Noam Chomsky and Ilan Pappé
  • Anything by Ilan Pappé
  • The Hundred Years War on Palestine: A History of Settler Colonialism and Resistance, 1917–2017  by Rashid Khalidi, published 2020


News sites:


Organizations:


In solidarity with the Palestinian struggle join the Boycott Divestment and Sanctions (BDS) campaign against Israel.
https://bdsmovement.net/


For another perspective of my Birthright trip check out my fellow Birthright participant Ezra Siegel's blog entry discussing the same ten days, "Arriving in Israel for my Birthright."